Travel

Go where few have gone before: the icy wilds of Greenland

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Greenland is a bit of a mystery to many people. Its island neighbor, Iceland, gets most of the attention, and not everyone knows that both countries have similarly stunning landscapes, massive glaciers and, during certain times of the year, near-nightly views of the northern lights. With more flights scheduled for Greenland and the expanded Nuuk Airport set to open in late 2024, the spotlight seems to be shifting. Greenland is preparing for its Arctic closeup.

Getting around

It takes some planning to wander Greenland. There are no roads or trains between the island's towns, so the easiest way to get from one destination to the next is by air. Air Greenland flies planes and helicopters to towns across the country, and from April to December, ferries run from Qaqortoq up to Ilulissat. Once you are in a town, there are multiple internal transportation methods, including buses, taxis and boats. What draws intrepid visitors to Greenland, population 56,661, is its remoteness. "Fly down the west coast and you'll past countless fjords and glaciers crowded only with birds and reindeer," The New York Times said, adding that it is far more likely to spy "humpback whales, narwhals, polar bears and musk oxen than to see a tour bus." This "big nature," as Lonely Planet called it, is awe-inspiring. Being able to see the northern lights dance across the sky is a dream made into reality in Greenland. This phenomenon regularly occurs here from late August to April and appears especially dazzling thanks to minimal light pollution. While there is "really no bad place to watch the northern lights in Greenland," the optimal experience can be had in western Kangerlussuaq, "which is blessed with more than 300 clear nights per year," Condé Nast Traveler said. Greenlandic sled dogs can also take travelers to more remote areas for even clearer views of the aurora borealis. There are places in the world that leave you speechless, and the spectacular Ilulissat Icefjord is one of them. Nature watching at this UNESCO World Heritage Site is "off-the-chart amazing," Lonely Planet said, and you could "spend all day cruising between icebergs and comparing their shapes and colors" while keeping a look out for whales and other wildlife. The icebergs were calved from Sermeq Kujalleq, the world's fastest moving glacier, and fill a space that is the equivalent of 66,000 football fields. For a real treat, book a stay in one of the Aurora Cabins at the Hotel Arctic. Made of aluminum, these igloos are designed so guests can clearly see the northern lights and vast beauty of Disko Bay. This is "big, in-your-face wilderness," The Times said, with guests enjoying the "thunderous rumble of a calving glacier" and "immense icebergs floating on by." These cozy cabins let you experience nature while shielded from the elements, with luxurious touches like heated floors and walls. To explore Greenland's culture, head to Nuuk. This is the country's capital, and home to more than a third of its population. Rich in history, there are several museums, like the Greenland National Museum, that dive into the island's heritage. Exhibitions there focus on early Norse settlements, Inuit ways of transportation, whale oil refineries and the Thule people, who are the ancestors of today's Greenlanders, . Get a taste of local life at the Katuaq Cultural Center, a "striking building in the center of town" where diners can feast on burgers, hot dogs made of musk ox meat, and Greenlandic tapas, "typically small bites of seasoned local delicacies like prawns, mussels, smoked salmon and perhaps whale," Lonely Planet said. While at the center, see what is on the day's agenda: There might be a concert, poetry reading, art exhibition or movie playing in the cinema. You can still enjoy the great outdoors while inside your hotel in Nuuk. The rooms at Hotel Hans Egede feature lovely mountain and fjord views, and for more space, book one of the property's 15 apartments, which come with full kitchens and dining rooms. To cap off your day of gawking, go to the Skyline Bar on the fifth floor for a drink and nightly entertainment.